Weber karburatori

Thanks, very much for the illustration. I was pretty sure that was a fuel return. I did try both solenoids, and they both click. Is there any kind of reference for a guy who is deleting emissions?
I have a carb kit on the way, it wasn't listed for the Yugo rather a Ford Fiesta. The bowl gasket looks the same, and hopefully the diaphragms match. Should be what I need. How much of that dashpot and high idle control do I really need?
I quite nearly put a DFV on it, but that may be a little much carb for the 1.3, and I can't keep my super neat stock air cleaner assembly.

Next I am off to the electrical section to hunt down some wiring plans.

Is that port with the hand written caption supposed to be my ported vacuum for the distributor?

Yes

I'm doing away with most of the stuff in that diagram. The less stuff hooked to vacuum, the less there is to go wrong. I tore a whole bundle of lines and valves out on Saturday night. Oddly, the distributor was hooked into a nipple on the manifold right by the power brake takeoff when I found it. I'm just about to go get my carb out of the dip right now. Should have a fresh carb in about an hour, figuring for head scratching.

Well, it was a little more than an hour, but it does run. Idle is a little wobbly, and I am almost 100% sure I have the choke adjusted wrong, but it runs. Is this thing supposed to sound like a chainsaw?
CARB kit had no instructions, beyond telling you they changed the gasket and to beware of staked tubes. I opted not to change the needle and seat since the new ones supplied with the kit were rubber tipped and had a larger Inlet orifice. I know from my work with Holley carbs that when you change the seat orifice diameter, it radically changes the force against the needle valve. I have never been a fan of the rubber tipped needles either. It seems like they deteriorate faster.
I didn't install the two diaphragm assemblies that bolt on to the outside of the carb. I can't see a real use for the one behind the throttle lever, and the one on the opposite side relies on a vacuum signal from something. I'm pretty sure I've already done away with whatever operates it. The one remaining question is what to do about the two air bleed lines on the Inlet side of the carb. I've seen a few pics on here of a hose run from one to the other, but if it's an air bleed would it be better to hook them both into a small breather?
I still have a remote tank hooked up, but I have it on the fuel return side. The line that is supposed to hook to the return is ridiculously stiff, and can't be pushed on to the return nipple with two men and a horse. I'm going to see if I can patch that up tomorrow.

Those two air bleed lines are connected to the air filter housing, and they supply additional air, but the lines which connect the carb to the filter housing have brass restrictors inside, and the restrictions measure 1.4 and 1mm respectively.
The return line is a bitch to put on the carb, put some silicone grease on the return nipple and just wiggle it until it fits.
It can idle a bit rough for the first couple of days, mine had a high pitched whine when accelerating even though I used a new gasket and sealant, as if I had turbo lol.

I doubt I'm pushing that line on. I used lithium grease, and pushed so hard the carburetor cut into my skin. I'm going to the parts store during lunch and getting a new piece of line. As it is, I removed the smog pump to be able to get at the line.

Try this, simply unscrew the return line nipple from the carb, attach the hose to it (use 8mm), clamp it, and then screw it back in.
And while the return line is out of the carb, take time to drill out the constriction in the return line, since it can plug up from the Calcium -like deposits and restrict the flow, which can cause the carb to overflow and fill up the second barrel. I've had that happen to me twice, and I simply drilled out the hole, and I've had no problems since.

I ended up replacing the line with something not as stiff. I had already tried forcing the nipple into the hose and then screwing it in. I needed a lot more leverage, which is why I tried it with the carb dismounted. However, I've got it now. No more remote tank routed out from under the hood. Choke is still pretty screwy. I have to open the hood and take the darn thing off high (ridiculously high) idle. This evening it decided to start idling unusually low. I took it up to the wash pad and gave it a bath. I've discovered a couple of other things that will need attention, and several mysteries. I know literally one other person who has owned a Yugo. I'm tempted to rig a manual choke to it and be done.
I'm going to head over to the engine forum and see what I can find out about the so-called vapor separator.

You can adjust the high idle like this: Open the air filter housing, and pull the throttle lever with the screw on it, that goes inside the choke assembly. Manually close the choke flaps, and release the throttle lever. On the screw that goes inside the choke assembly, there is an 8mm nut. Loosen the nut and start the car, but don't depress the throttle like you would normally do! When the revs stabilise use a screwdriver on the long end of that screw that goes in the choke, and simply turn it out to lower the revs. When you bring it to the revs you want, tighten the 8mm nut and you are all set. Mine is set to idle at about 2000rpm when the choke is fully closed. During these summer days, the choke doesn't close all the way (it needn't really) so it idles at about 1000 rpm when started, because the bi-metallic spring reacts to the ambient temperature too.

I may have clocked it slightly wrong when I reassembled it. I had to remove the choke assembly so I could dip the carb. The dip would have eaten all the plastic parts, the other ring and the diaphragm if I had left it on.

You sholud go efi 😅

Ugh... More sensors and electronics. Nope. Simple is the name of the game. Fix it in the side of the road with haywire and bubblegum.

When you go efi you dont go back 😅

I have TBI on a Chevy and don't like it. It depends on too many other things. I assume the EFI has an ECM of some kind? And that requires information from probably five or seven sensors?

Here is bosch sistem with 5 sensors..

Aj` malo na naski, za nas koji ne govorimo esperanto...

Google je mama 😅

Pa treba danima da prevodim ovo sto napisaste...

I can speak bad Spanish or worse Russian, Japanese or German if that helps?

Just write on english,grampa is never pleased 😅

pozz svima, dali Weber 22/22 elektronac ima saf za stelovanje smese

u pitanju je ovakav karburator

Ima