No low beams Sa prevodom

Let me first apologize if the translation is imperfect, Google translate sometimes leaves me a mystery when translating to English. I think its technical language may be lacking.

I have figured out most of my electrical problems except my headlights. The manual I downloaded is British, and contains a plan for a different type of high and low beam system. I'm guessing since they use the European style bulbs that the dim-dip unit is some kind of resistor. I have the US model, and it is different.
I have high beams, but no low beams. When I move the lever to low beams, I have park lamps and instrument lamps but no headlights. When I move the lever to high beams, the high beams come on. I have checked the bulbs for continuity, and both posts give me continuity to ground. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dozvolite mi da se prvo izvinim ako je prevod nesavršen, Google-ov prevod ponekad ostavlja misteriju prilikom prevođenja na engleski. Mislim da njegov tehnički jezik možda nedostaje.
Shvatio sam većinu mojih električnih problema osim mojih farova. Priručnik koji sam preuzeo je britanski i sadrži plan za drugačiji tip sistema visoke i niske brzine. Pretpostavljam, pošto koriste sijalice u evropskom stilu da je dim-dip jedinica neka vrsta otpornika. Ja imam američki model, i to je drugačije.
Imam visoke grede, ali ne i niske grede. Kada pomerim polugu u niske grede, imam parkirne lampe i instrument lampe, ali bez farova. Kada pomerim polugu do dugih greda, dolaze visoki snopovi. Proverio sam sijalice za kontinuitet, a obe pozicije su mi dale kontinuitet na zemlju. Svaki prijedlog bi bio cenjen.

Relay is maybe problem,you should check there is conection betwen light and relay,and than betwen switch and relay..run classsic check for wiring

If the bulbs are ok, relay is ok, fuzes are ok (if they are plastic, they can look ok, but plastic tends to melt, so they get shorter-put ceramic fuzes in), then source of your problems is this part, as I told you before:


I had the same low beams problem. Low beams can be rewired in that part's connector, electric guy did that for me, so I didn't had to change that part, but, I can't help you how to do it yourself. I know that green wire is + for the headlights, and that wire was rewired with another wire in connector.

If I disconnect the switch, the two things should be true: I should be able to feed power directly to the low beam through one end of the connector and should be able to test continuity through the switch in the low beam position on the opposite side. I just do not know where to test, nor where to feed power. Let's call the top row 1 2 3 and 4, and bottom row 5 6 7 and 8. I tested all three metal cased relays by putting them in the harness for my fuel pump relay. All tested good. I have two mystery devices on the electric panel. The positions two and six have live power according to the test light. Position 4 kicks the high beams when power is supplied. Position 7 makes a click when supplied voltage.
Two circled devices, the top is a relay with extra leg. I do not know its purpose. Lower device is completely unknown. The image may be large, using screen capture on my phone.
Https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/GEcBLJL.png
Connector, with numbers. Again, the image may be large.
Https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/GEcCMEv.png
If I knew for sure which pins did what, I could test the switch to determine whether it was good or bad. I supplied the six wires that were not hot by applying power. I tested with test lamp clipped to voltage, and used the probe to supply voltage directly to the pins. This method illuminates the test lamp at all except 7, which causes a click. I fed power to both filaments in the right headlight. It lit on both filaments.

The translation may be imperfect, I had to translate back to English because I lost my post. The results were pretty comical. Luckily I pieced it back together.

Ako isključim prekidač, dve stvari bi trebale biti istinite: trebalo bi da mogu da napajaju napajanje direktno na niske zrake kroz jedan kraj konektora i trebao bi biti u stanju da kontinuitet kroz prekidač u položaju niske snopove na suprotnom Strana. Samo ne znam gde da testiram, niti gde da hranim moć. Nazovimo gornji red 1 2 3 i 4, a donji red 5 6 7 i 8. Testirao sam sva tri releja sa metalnim kućištem zamenjivši ih u releju releja pumpe za gorivo. Sve u redu. Imam dva misterija uređaja na električnom panelu. Položaji dva i šest imaju žive napone sa uključenim svetlom. Položaj 4 štapa velike svetlosti kada se napaja energija. Pozicija 7 čini da kliknete kada se napaja energija.
Dva okružena uređaja, vrh je rele sa dodatnom nogom. Ne znam da je svrha. Dot je potpuno nepoznat. Slika može biti velika, koristeći snimanje na mom telefonu.
URL adresa slike iznad
Konektor, sa brojevima. Ponovo, slika može biti velika.
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Ako sam sigurno znao koje igle su uradile, mogao bih da testiram preko prekidača kako bih utvrdio da li je to dobro ili loše. Ja sam snabdevao šest žica koje nisu vruće. Ispitao sam testnu lampu na napon, i iskoristio sondu da napušta napon direktno na igle. Ova metoda osvetljava test lampe na sve osim 7, što uzrokuje klik. Ja sam napajao energiju na oba filamenta na desnom svetlu. Upalilo se na oba filamenta.

I don't know if it's good or bad, but my low beams started working this evening. I didn't do anything to the electrical system in the last several days, so I am a little puzzled. I guess I'll enjoy them while I have them.

Check for the connectors on the headlights and wires that are ground-attached with body. Clear them, they might be rusty, and that might be the problem. They might stop working on bumps...etc.

Wouldn't that prevent the brights from working as well?

Yes but on vibrations, sometimes it gets better grim, sometimes not, or some wire is loosing contacts.

Brights were always flawless. That's why I am a little confused.

Found it. It's the switch. Wiggle the headlight switch a little, and the low beams flicker.